Breguet
Classique Chronograph
3230 - Rare Early Example
Abraham Louis Breguet is considered the most influential watchmaker of all time.
Preserved untouched in a bank vault for thirty years, this rare Classique Chronograph Ref. 3230BA is an important marker in the realm of neo-vintage watches. It was one of the earliest models released by the brand, and in many's opinion one of the most historically important. Interestingly the ref. 3230BA referenced both the solid and exhibition back examples, later models were re-branded as the 3237.
With Jacques and Pierre Chaumet at the helm, talented watchmaker (previously of Audemars Piguet for 7 years) Daniel Roth joined the team to help define and execute the next chapter of Breguet's history. Under their revitalised tenure, Breguet joined the likes of Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin, and began looking back to classic watchmaking styling for their new models. In Breguet's case, this meant reverting to its founder's core ideology for the brand.
In the 1990's the watchmakers at Breguet were well ahead of their contemporaries, finessing exquisite details in their watches. This dial is a masterclass in proportion and execution. A cross-hatch guilloché (with a vertical wave pattern within the sub-dials) on a hand-engine–turned solid gold disc, silver-coated using a centuries-old chemical process. Laser-thin blackwork is applied, surmounted overall with flawless heat-blued Breguet hands.
It is elegantly sized at 36mm and quintessentially Breguet in its looks and proportions. Powered by the venerable Lemania Cal. 2310, it is the same used on similarly important references such as the Vacheron Constantin Les Historiques Chronographe and the Patek Philippe Ref. 5070. The column wheel movement features a swan neck regulator and is beautifully finished.
This specific example has gracefully aged in the best way possible, displaying a light patina on the dial that has developed over time. Amidst the overlooked gems of the '80s and '90s, the Breguet Ref. 3230BA emerges as historically significant, impeccably designed, and equipped with a top-tier movement—truly a pinnacle timepiece. It doesn’t get any better than this.
The movement is linked by an unspoken DNA to some of the world's other great chronographs. It is the same base calibre as the Patek Philippe 5970, the Vacheron Traditionnelle 47292 and the Audemars chrono tourbillon 25977. This movement was introduced in 1942 and was still used in new watches some eighty years later.
Investors are snapping up high-grade 1980s and 1990s complications such as this, made in the era of low volume, before today's saturated mass systematisation of horological micro-finishing. This is simply unrepeatable quality and value.
Solid gold reeded watch case with fine patina, and matching Breguet pin buckle. Fitted to the original black alligator strap and supplied with its original certificate and Breguet Archive.
Stock No. 15986
Year: 1985
Ref.: 3230BA
Material: 18ct Yellow Gold
Size: 36mm
Movement: Breguet manual-wind chronograph calibre 533 (Lemania 2310)
Papers: Yes
Strap: Alligator
Our price: SOLD
We provide free next-day delivery within the UK, and free worldwide shipping, fully insured. Every watch we dispatch, can be returned in its original condition within 14 days.